Before I tell you about Brian Lavin and Sam White, I have a question. Did you ever go to Gnocco in Highlandtown during their three-year run a few years back? If you did, you probably remember being wowed by the food and drinks and the warm, intimate feel. I was very sad when it closed, so when I heard that owners Brian Lavin and Sam White were opening up a new spot, Costiera, I was ridiculously excited. I knew it would be good. And it is โ very, very good.
Situated on a southeast corner along Central Avenue on the edge of Little Italy, Costiera is filled with great light and warm wood tones. A vibrant and colorful mural by Ham & Cheese Studios greets you at the bar.
Sam runs the bar, while Brian is in charge of the food. The menu is a lighter, brighter kind of Italian, focused on coastal cuisine. Expect lots of fresh seafood, as well as pasta that is made in-house daily, the freshest local seasonal produce and a menu that changes often. In addition to regular dinner service, they have a great happy hour menu (Monday โ Friday 4:00pm – 7:00pm) and they serve lunch on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The bar is my favorite place to sit! I enjoy the menu of Negronis and the wine list is really lovely.
I know I sound like a broken record but Iโm a big proponent of supporting nice, hard working people. It matters. Brian and Sam are kind and thoughtful and I am so happy for their success. They got a really great review from Baltimore Magazine recently! When you put your everything into opening a new restaurant, I bet it feels good to be recognized. But what probably feels even better is having a full house of happy guests, so if you haven’t been yet, GO.
Thanks, Brian and Sam. Iโm so glad to feature you in Bakerโs Dozen.
Cake or Pie? And what kind?
Sam: I am a pie guy. Specifically, a Roman style pizza pie with a thin, crispy crust.
Brian: A big oleโ rich chocolate cake. Pastry Chef Ana Pino makes one of the best chocolate cakes Iโve ever had.
Your most prized possession?
Sam: โFiggyโ my fig tree. My wife, Kaitlin, and I planted figgy in our front yard when we bought a house a couple years ago. We have enjoyed watching Figgy grow and this fall we should get a decent harvest. I am looking forward to making pizza with figs, gorgonzola, lardo, and a balsamic glaze.
Brian: A globe that my grandmother got me a few years ago. When my grandfather passed away, my grandmother got rid of this globe that he had and since I was little my sister and I were always eyeing it up. When she found out that we loved it, she sent us each a big globe on a really cool stand and it’s my favorite thing.
Whatโs your favorite thing to order out at restaurants?
Sam: I always look for the weirdest item on a menu to order. It started when I was a kid (for attention) but turns out that frog legs, squab, liver mousse, whole fish, etc. are quite delicious so now I go for those things because I typically will not make them at home.
Brian: I like to go out mostly for breakfast or lunch these days. Iโm a big sandwich guy, the Old World Italian from DiPasquales is pretty much my favorite thing ever.
Whatโs your favorite to cook at home?
Sam: Cast iron pizzas.
Brian: Even though Iโm around pasta all day at Costiera, itโs still one of my favorite things to cook at home.
Whatโs your morning beverage and how do you take it?
Sam: Coffee, black as a moonless sky at midnight, either from a chemex or moka pot.
Brian: A cortado with whole milk.
Whatโs your personal motto?
Sam: Listen to your heart. Listen to the beat. Listen to the rhythm, rhythm of the street.
Brian: Oof, thats a hard one. Iโm not sure if I have one?
Whatโs your favorite holiday and why?
Sam: ฯ day
Brian: Iโve always had off on Easter Sunday (at least after brunch) so Iโve gotten to spend it with my family and Iโve started an Easter paella tradition. I do also love Christmas Eve when I get to cook the feast of the seven fishes. My family isnโt Italian, but it’s become a tradition.
Best advice you were ever given? And from whom?
Sam: A million things happen every day that we cannot control so you should jump at the chance to take action when there is something you can. An old Foreman Wolf training point I think.
Brian: I went to the Star Chefs convention in 2011 in NYC. My old boss and good friend Jason Ambrose bought me tickets for my birthday and it was awesome. Massimo Bottura was there and did a big presentation. He said as a cook and a chef you should find something outside of the kitchen that gives you inspiration. At that point I was a sous chef and I thought working 80 hours a week and focusing solely on restaurants was the only important thing. But as Iโve gotten older, I realize drawing inspiration from other things and taking time for yourself is incredibly important and that advice has grown on me over the years.
What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment?
Sam: Aside from opening Costiera, the winter ascent of Mt. Washington (even though it was an unseasonably warm, overcast day).
Brian: I was really proud of winning the Zagat 30 under 30 while Gnocco was open. We had a shoebox of a kitchen and did some fun things out of there.
The last text you sent?
Sam: โCouldnโt have done it without youโ to the talented JCShelfCo who refinished our beautiful wood tables at Costiera.
Brian: A seafood order.
What is your idea of perfect happiness?
Sam: A hammock.
Brian: Being able to create memories for people through food and restaurants. I love being in the kitchen and I plan to be there for a long, long time to come.
What do you love most about food?
Sam: The perfect last bite that has a little bit of everything and you get to scoop up all the rest of the sauce.
Brian: The ability it has to bring people together.
Whatโs your favorite place in Baltimore?
Sam: Druid Hill Park. It is a great place to hang your hammock, throw some discs, and eat a slice from Ribaldiโs.
