Over the past year or so, the Washington Post has been on a real anti-Baltimore tear. Surely, though, a visit to Shoo-Fly, the new restaurant by local foodie darling Spike Gjerde, would be enough to melt even the most hardened DC heart, right? Turns out, not so much.
WaPo food critic Tom Sietsema starts his review by mentioning how excited his friends were at the prospect of heading up to Baltimore for a taste of Gjerde’s food: “One of the Mid-Atlantic’s best-known chefs, Gjerde is revered by food fans for his relationships with the people who grow, fish and forage for his menu at the bucolic Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, where the cooking is framed in a beauty of a barn and the service flows smooth and sweet,” he writes.
But that set-up is only in service to a later smack down, as Sietsema details his disappointments with Shoo-Fly, “one of the biggest dining bafflements of the year.” The cocktail was too sweet; the beets were cloying; the fromage was bland; the catfish was soulless; the potato chips were bland; there was too much cole slaw and not enough peanuts on his salad. “The many-layered $1,000 Apple Pie would be a find… in a vending machine,” he writes. Ouch.
Now, I haven’t been to Shoo-Fly, so I can’t say whether all that vitriol is warranted. Readers, what do you think?
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