
โShe Shoulda Said โNo!โโ was a 1949 exploitation film in the โReefer Madnessโ mold, designed to warn red-blooded, young Americans about the moral rot, social deviancy and sexual degeneracy that comes with using drugs. In it, a young womanโs experiments with weed lead her into a wayward spiral of selling drugs, losing her job and promiscuity, her moral downfall pushing her brother to suicide. Only after cleaning up in jail and collaborating with authorities can she right her way in life.
For his photographic piece โShoulda!โ, filmmaker, artist, author and Baltimore citizen John Waters uses the filmโs title card as a lead-in to a series of head shots of women who possibly made a few bad decisions in their lives: Whitney Houston, Anna Nicole Smith, Princess Diana, Patsy Cline and Amy Winehouse. The initial response to the piece is that wincing shame that comes with getting the punchline to an uncomfortable joke. What immediately follows, however, are more knotty feelings and stories. Sure, itโs easy to suggest that Houston or Winehouse shoulda just said no to drugs and alcohol, but people have problems doing that even when they donโt live in fameโs sniper crosshairs. By the time the brain starts wondering if the piece is asking us if we should blame these women for the tabloid deaths that befell them, โShoulda!โ has evolved into a touching meditation.
Touching probably isnโt the word that springs to mind when thinking about Watersโ work. โShockingโ typically is. For more than 50 years, Watersโ movies, books, one-man touring Christmas specials for people who hate the holidays, television appearances, interviews and even the impromptu, quick exchange of hellos you might have when running into him at the Club Charles or the dear, departed Atlantis have been the stuff of ribald outlandishness.
โBad tasteโ is his ostensible mรฉtier. His cinematic calling card is a film that ends with an infamous scene of coprophagia. His books have explored his complicated relationship with former Charles Manson follower Leslie Van Houten and purveyors of extreme pornography. Itโs no coincidence that the mainstreaming of Watersโ films and celebrity coincides with the emergence and rise of the internetโs bull market, where anti-bourgeois โbad tasteโ ivied into just another consumable good. What was once culturally transgressive in a John Waters movie is probably something being Snapchatted right now. Today, in the Venn diagram of โPorn You Didnโt Know Existsโ and โThings That Make Your Mom Laugh,โ their overlap is populated by one person: the Prince of Puke, the Pope of Trash, the Peopleโs Pervert, Mr. John Waters.
The above infodump is necessary for orienting a visit to โJohn Waters: Indecent Exposure,โ his career retrospective at the Baltimore Museum of Art, because if all youโre seeing is the superficial eccentricityโthe ostensibly weirdโthen youโre missing the profound emotional intelligence and intellectual savvy that runs through everything he does like a moral lodestar.
โIndecent Exposureโ brings together 160 works, ranging from when his visual art production began in earnest in the early 1990s up to the present. Popular culture is his subject, the cinematic storytelling of image sequencing his overwhelming strategy, his own photos of othersโ films his primary media and a deep love for the lives lived in societyโs fringes a recurring theme. Itโs a funny, entertaining show by any measure, and, if you give yourself over to it, disarmingly profound.
At 72, Baltimoreโs favorite son may have matured into its funny uncle, but if all youโre seeing is his wit youโll miss what makes Watersโ entire oeuvre so vital. He is, hands down, the most radical humanist raised a Catholic since Pier Paolo Pasolini.

Yes, the humor is whatโs going to grab the attention first. โBeverly Hills Johnโ is one of three photos that greet โIndecent Exposureโ visitors, and itโs a hoot. Itโs a fairly standard publicity head shot of Waters seated at a table in a snazzy sport coat and white Oxford, one arm extended across the tabletop, the other bent with a hand raised to his face. But that face: Watersโ familiar visage has been digitally manipulated into a caricature of extreme plastic surgeryโforehead tightened, eyebrows raised and thinned, cheekbones accentuated, lips plumped, smile lines erased. Itโs creepyโand hilarious.
Nearby, the photograph โLoserโs Gift Basketโ pokes fun at the glamorous swag that corporate sponsors donate to award shows to pass along to winners. Waters imagines what people who didnโt win a statuette might take home: a carton of Pall Malls, a canned ham, jock itch spray, a gift certificate for a 90-day stay in the Betty Ford Center and, saddest of all, a Yanni CD.
Itโs possible to walk through โIndecent Exposureโ getting drunk on such immediate, mischievous humor: โChildren Who Smokeโ so seamlessly adds cigarettes to a number of film stills featuring recognizable child stars that youโll pause for a moment, wondering how you somehow missed that episode of โLeave it to Beaverโ and โThe Andy Griffith Showโ where the Beav and Opi fired one up. Waters offers his idea for political sloganeering in his โCampaign Buttonโ photograph, which invites people to โhave sex in a voting boothโ in patriotic red, white and blue.
Even when Waters starts to gets a bit more conceptual, itโs done with an impudent streak. Toward the exhibitionโs end is a NSFW gallery that includes a coffee table-sized sculpture of a spilled bottle called โRush,โ the name brand of the inhalant better known as poppers that have been a gay party drug for decadesโthe pop art celebration of a mass-produced item as ubiquitous as Coke bottles for a specific community. โSecret Movieโ is a tall, square white column that kinda looks an Ann Truitt-ish minimalist sculpture. Atop Watersโ piece, out of reach without a ladder, is a print from one of three movies, known only to Waters and exhibit curator Kristine Hileman, sworn to secrecy. In an exhibition littered with Watersโ appropriation of film images, heโs keeping this one to himself. And you totally want to know what it is. (My guess for what one of those three films may be: Mai Zetterlingโs criminally under-seen โNight Gamesโ from 1966.)
Both โSecret Movieโ and โRushโ provide entryways into the deeper layers than run through Watersโ works. โRushโ is a bravura metonym for a history rarely told, much less acknowledged. As Sussex University history professor Lucy Robinson told The Independent in 2016: โIf you trace the bottle of poppers through late 20th-century history, you trace the legacies of gay culture on popular culture in the 20th centuryโฆ We wouldnโt have had rave, disco or club culture as we know it today without the gay community.โ โSecret Movieโ is an outright slapstick comment on one of the few ways to hide something in this tell-all 21st century: keep it out of reach.
The untold and unknown histories taking place around us, the invasiveness of public curiosity and personal desire: these are some of the political concerns that Waters has wrestled with in his storytelling efforts from his early films through his contemporary visual art. Yes, heโs framed such politicalโand moralโawareness through his own sincere love for the ostensible outsider, but at the heart of that sincerity is a humanist who has witnessed firsthand how the lives of people not accepted by the monoculture of polite, mainstream society can play out: freckled with substance abuse, crime, indigency and violence.
Watersโ movies celebrated such narratives to make those hidden stories seen; his visual art more slyly excoriates the culture that deems somebody an outcast in the first place. Circle back to โBeverly Hills John,โ the photo that imagines Waters with an extreme makeover. Itโs hung next to two other imagined cosmetic surgery jobs: โJustinโs Had Workโ and โReconstructed Lassie,โ which imagine what pop-star Justin Bieber and, yes, celebrity dog Lassie might look like after going under the knife. Theyโre hilarious to behold, but whatโs shocking about them isnโt how they look, but feeling all too familiar with a culture in which a dog or young person needs to be cosmetically improved.
โBrainiacโ may be โIndecent Exposureโsโ most quietly savage piece of commentary. Itโs a fake cover to a tabloid called Brainiac that treats posh literary figuresโwriter Renata Adler, art critic Hilton Kramer, American food writing doyenne M.F.K. Fisherโwith National Enquirer-ish sensationalism. Joan Didion is imagined to have hit 250 pounds. The inhumanly prolific Joyce Carol Oates is revealed to have writerโs block. A cover teaser promises nude photos of poet W.H. Auden inside. Itโs hilarious, and fearlessly spotlights the class condescension that divides people into those that both usually appear in tabloids and those who read them. Because, really: You know who says they wouldnโt pick up and leaf through a weekly promising pics of Audenโs, uh, vertical man? Liars.
Not every one of the 160 works in โIndecent Exposureโ contains as many richly layered ideas and stories as โBrainiac,โ but itโs a show that rewards that level of close looking and thinking. (If you want a more art-historical approach for thinking about โIndecent Exposure,โ pick up the catalog in the gift shop for curator Hilemanโs essay, which provides the finest context for understanding how Waters fits into the contemporary art spectrum yet written.) Remain open to where Waters may be leading you, because even when you think youโve found that elusive something hiding just beneath his worksโ satirical surface, something else may surface.

Some film buffs will know that โShe Shoulda Said โNo!’โ starred Lila Leeds, a Lana Turner-lookalike who was picked up for smoking weed with Robert Mitchum and spent 60 days in jail, making โShouldaโ an exploitation film actually exploiting her notoriety. Many of Mitchumโs career-defining roles lay ahead of him, and he steadily worked just about until he passed in 1997. Leeds appeared, uncredited, in one more film before leaving the industry, though she remained an infamous curiosity for the Los Angeles Times in the 1950s as she bounced in and out of trouble with the law during her probation. She turned to singing in nightclubs, and her resulting Midwest touring led to her being banned from California for probation violation. She married a bandleader, who got her addicted to heroin. She disappeared from the Times radar for a bit, only to reappear in 1974, when she was found as an ordained minister working with a Los Angeles mission. Headline: โEx-Bad Girlโ Turns to God.โ
The entirety of her 1999 obituary in the Los Angeles Times reads: โLeeds, Lila, 71, of Canoga Park, artist and writer. Pierce Bros.-Praiswater Mortuary, Canoga Park.โ
So while, yes, in his โShoulda!โ Waters borrows the scandalous patina of the bygone exploitation flick as a way to think about a few contemporary fallen stars, I also kinda think heโs, in his own over-the-top understated way, elevating Leeds to their stature. After all, sheโs another everyday outsiderโone of the freaks, weirdos, the Othersโwho maybe chose a different path. And if Waters sees a human story worth cherishing that would otherwise become a forgotten footnote, may we all be so unclean.
โJohn Waters: Indecent Exposureโ runs through January 6, 2019, at the Baltimore Museum of Art. On Nov. 1, Waters discusses his work with curator Kristen Hileman in an artist conversation at the museum, followed by a book signing. The museums screens an 18-hour marathon of Waters films Nov. 9-10.
