Food and farming have always been in Denzel Mitchell. He was meant to be a farmer—but the road to farming has also given him plenty of room to do the things he loves: cooking, teaching, and being a dad to five children (it’s his Instagram handle, after all).
You may know Denzel as the executive director of the Farm Alliance of Baltimore, or from his years working alongside Damian Mosley at Blacksauce Kitchen. You may recognize him in one of Amy Sherald’s incredible portraits in American Sublime, sitting atop a green tractor. Or perhaps you may know him as a teacher, including at Baltimore Montessori School, where he planned, built, and planted the school’s vegetable garden.
What you may not know is that Denzel played a role in bringing one of Baltimore’s most interesting heirloom peppers back into the local food scene: the fish pepper.
I love this story.
While teaching at Baltimore Montessori, Denzel was working with students around food and nutrition when he visited Spike Gjerde’s kitchen at Woodberry Kitchen. He was fascinated by what was happening behind the scenes, introduced himself to Spike, and mentioned that he was growing fish peppers from seeds he had purchased from D. Landreth Seed Company. The seeds came from its Chesapeake Bay African American Heirloom Seed Collection, curated by writer and historian Michael Twitty.
Those first few pepper plants eventually became hundreds, thanks to leased land from Denzel’s neighbors. He grew fish peppers along with microgreens and other niche produce for Baltimore restaurants including Iggie’s, Soup’s On and Woodberry Kitchen. And as someone who had worked as a line cook himself, Denzel already understood what chefs wanted. He had found a way to connect his experience in the kitchen with his growing interest in farming.
And, if you’ll indulge me for a minute because I think the fish pepper itself is pretty fascinating. It’s bright and incredibly versatile, with enough heat to be interesting without overpowering a dish. Traditionally, white fish peppers can be dried and used in dishes like oyster stew without changing the color of the broth. They can also be made into jam or relish, used like a chili flake, fermented in vinegar or turned into hot sauce. (If you’re a Baltimorean, you have likely tried Spike Gjerde’s Snake Oil fish pepper sauce!)
Today, Denzel sees his work as part of something much bigger: building a more equitable food system in Baltimore. “I know that the work of the Farm Alliance is creating some significant changes in the food system and food equity in Baltimore,” he says. “I’m very proud of our entire team and I learn from them everyday.”
A perfect example of that impact the Farm Alliance of Baltimore is making is Black Butterfly Teaching Farm, their teaching farm which Amy Scattergood recently profiled for Baltimore Magazine. It is the kind of work that changes lives and inspires people to get involved in urban farming. Supporting them—whether through a financial donation or by stopping by the Farm Alliance’s stand at the 32nd Street Farmers Market on a Saturday morning—is a simple way to feel connected to their incredible network of small Baltimore City farms.
What makes Denzel’s story so interesting is this: he didn’t leave cooking behind when he became a farmer, or teaching when he became a nonprofit leader. He’s found a way to bring all of those things together—and along the way, make a real difference in this city.
Here are Denzel’s answers to my 13 questions. I personally love his motto.
Cake or pie? And, what kind?
Cheesecake, which is actually a pie.
Your most prized possession?
My health.
What’s your favorite thing to order out at restaurants?
Bread.
What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?
Pasta.
What is your morning beverage and how do you take it?
Water.
What’s your personal motto?
Do better.
What is your favorite holiday and why?
None. Every day that I’m alive and well is a “holy day”.
Best advice you were ever given? And from whom?
“Pray without ceasing” –my grandmother.
What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment?
Being a present and an engaged father to five children.
The last text you sent?
“I love you.”
What is your idea of perfect happiness?
A loving partner, steady income, ready access to the food I want, opportunity for plenty of rest, music, art and global peace.
What do you love most about food?
That it is essential. I love that every time someone sits down to eat they are committing a political act.
Your favorite place in Baltimore?
Leakin Park.
Read more Baker’s Dozen pieces and other writing from Amy Langrehr on her Substack, Cream Cheese + Olives.
