I first met Steve Chu around 2015, just as Ekiben was starting out. I can’t remember exactly when or where, which is often the case with people you just get to know easily.
As I watched Ekiben projectile themselves out into the food scene in Baltimore, I had such a good feeling about them. Steve and his business partner Ephrem Abebe have always felt so genuine and warm to me. Like, they are cool and current without making anyone around them feel less so. You just want them to be around their energy and you definitely want them to succeed. And, they LOVE Baltimore.
Once I tried their Neighborhood Bird Bowl — to me, the best thing you can eat in Bmore — and tempura broccoli, I understood Ekiben. (I also can devour the shrimp snacks and the tofu.)
One of my least favorite things is when restaurants serve things they think people will like, not what they really, really want to put on their menu. Ekiben serves things I had never even thought of and that is exactly what the world needs more of. Steve, Ephrem and their team’s vibe is essentially this: “Here’s this thing that I created, tested, tweaked over and over and improved until I was happy with it and now I want you to try it and tell me what you think.” Meticulousness, enthusiasm and fun. That’s Ekiben.
Here’s a great example of why Steve’s a good egg. Back around 2017, I reached out to ask if I could write something about him and Ekiben for a local magazine and Steve’s answer? “Yes, but let’s make it about my dad, too. People love Jumbo, but I don’t think enough people know his story.” So, the three of us met up for a meal at Mr. Chu’s restaurant, Jumbo Seafood in Pikesville (legend status, he actually sold it a few years ago) so that I could get to know Mr. Chu and hear more about his life. Over crispy beef and green beans, I heard about how Mr. Chu came to the US from Taiwan and worked for years and years to create opportunities for his family here in the States. Truly inspiring, not just saying that because I like Mr. Chu so much. Also, immigrants are the greatest and should be celebrated.
If you know Ekiben’s food and have been following their rise to success, you probably know the story of Steve, Ephrem and their Ekiben colleague Joe (he’s the best, too) driving to Vermont to make their tempura broccoli and tofu bowls for a customer who was terminally ill in 2021. As luck would have it, I randomly saw Ephrem the day they were hitting the road and he just said, “We don’t want to make a big deal about it. We just knew this was the right thing to do.” Classic.
What can I tell you about my friend, Steve?
For real, he has a work ethic like no one I have ever met. (See his “motto” answer below.)
He is a tough boss, because he’s had some of the toughest.
He loves being a husband and dad as much as he loves being a chef.
He’s always trying to be better, with fitness, with food, everything.
Every time we get together, meet up for a meal or run into each other around the city, it makes me happy.
Here are his 13 answers.
Cake or pie? And, what kind?
Ooo, that’s a good one. In general, I’m a cake guy, but when there’s a true 10/10 pie, those win. Any pie jam-packed with fruit — fresh, in-season berries, cherries, or peaches. Apple pie is good, but a lot of times it’s extremely mid.
Your most prized possession?
My relationships with my wife, family, and friends. I wouldn’t be here without them. Special shoutout to Ephrem, who’s put up with my nonsense for decades.
What’s your favorite thing to order out at restaurants?
I love really technical things: Beef Wellington, a great pasta, really well made sushi, a super crispy potato.
What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?
Surprisingly, I love cooking on my wok. It reminds me of cooking in the family restaurant, but in a more relaxed way.
What is your morning beverage and how do you take it?
Coffee. Black. Empty stomach. Maybe a Liquid I.V. if I’m working out.
What’s your personal motto?
Team no sleep.
What is your favorite holiday and why?
Thanksgiving used to be my favorite because of the food. So good. I worked every Christmas for years at Jumbo Seafood, and it was always the busiest day — we’d get absolutely crushed. But now that I don’t have to work those holidays anymore, we’ve started creating new family traditions. I’ve realized Christmas is basically Thanksgiving on steroids. So now I’d say Christmas.
Best advice you were ever given? And from whom?
“Business is built one customer at a time.” My dad told me that, and my uncle Sonny Lee told it to him first.
What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment?
Seeing how far Ekiben has come is really amazing, but my greatest accomplishment is watching the team grow, mature and want to become the best versions of themselves. Personally, my sobriety is also something I’m incredibly proud of. It’s helped me become a better husband, father, leader and business person. In hospitality, everything moves fast and drinking culture is everywhere, so choosing sobriety really forced me to grow and upgrade myself in ways I never expected. I think as restaurateurs, it’s really hard to sustain a healthy family life because we’re always go-go-go. Alcohol doesn’t always help with that. Sobriety has given me more presence, clarity, and time to really be with my family and my kid, and that’s something I value deeply.
The last text you sent?
“ILY” to my wife.
What is your idea of perfect happiness?
The top of one mountain is the bottom of the next. There’s no perfect happiness — just the pursuit of it.
What do you love most about food?
It’s the best vehicle for building community and showing someone you care about them.
Your favorite place in Baltimore?
In no particular order:
– The waterfront — doesn’t matter which neighborhood, it’s all relaxing
– Sherwood Gardens (I’m super allergic to pollen too!)
As for food? Aside from having the same favorite places as everyone in Baltimore like La Maison, Equitea, Dipasquales, Attmans, etc, I’d say these three. Kanom Cafe, a family-owned shop that really punches above their weight class. Lenny’s Delicatessen. I just love the cafeteria service style. It’s an art form in itself. Seeing the cooks memorize your order and get it right all the time is something I’ll never stop being impressed by. And, then, I love love love Brooms Bloom. It’s not in Baltimore per se but their peach ice cream, crab soup and sandwiches are so homey and comforting. It reminds me of childhood summers in Maryland.
Read more Baker’s Dozen pieces and other writing from Amy Langrehr on her Substack, Cream Cheese + Olives.
