Have you seen the new computer-animated Chipotle commercial? The one with the scarecrow?

It’s gotten a lot of praise — for being so well done — and also a lot of flak — for being so emotionally manipulative. One point of criticism is the video’s subtle implication that the meat-heavy burrito chain is vegetarian. (Rarely brought up is the video’s other implication — namely that Chipotle was founded by a melancholy scarecrow.)

But now the sort-of ethical, quasi-natural Mexican grill is adding a vegan protein to the standard choices of beef, other beef, chicken, or pork. It’s a braised tofu with peppers and spices called Sofritas, and Baltimore is among the first wave of East Coast cities to test it out.

Sofritas will hit all 100-or-so Baltimore Chipotle locations October 21. According to one West Coast reviewer — Sofritas debuted over there since January — it “doesn’t look so great,” but its tangy, smoky, tomato-y flavor is ultimately a “win.”