Restaurant Review

Restaurant Review: Locust Point’s Limoncello delivers sophisticated Italian fare

By
Kit Pollard
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Locust Point newcomer Limoncello might soon be your new favorite restaurant for a special occasion. But if you live nearby, it could become your trusty neighborhood spot, too.

Limoncello opened in late October, on the first floor of Anthem House, one of the new mixed-use buildings that have popped up around South Baltimore over the past few years. Anthem House’s developers call it a “lifestyle community.” In addition to luxury apartments, the building houses a barre/fitness studio and several restaurants.

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Restaurant Review: The Curious Oyster has lots of potential but also needs fine-tuning

By
Kit Pollard
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Between the Chesapeake Bay’s newly prolific oyster farms and an uptick in restaurants shining a spotlight on the beautiful bivalve, there’s never been a better time to be an oyster lover in Baltimore.

One of this fall’s most recent additions to the region’s oyster-centric dining scene is The Curious Oyster, which opened in mid-October at The Avenue at White Marsh. During a recent visit, the restaurant presented itself as ripe with potential, but in need of polishing.

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Restaurant review: Coelum is a stellar addition to Canton’s restaurant scene

By
Kit Pollard
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Has the Baltimore restaurant scene woken up from a nap? After a few sluggish years, with more news of closings than openings, the scene is showing signs of life, with high-profile debuts and new, creative menus on the way.

Coelum, which opened last July in the Canton space formerly occupied by Gitan Bistro Cru, is part of that wave. If the next few restaurants that open in Baltimore are even half as good as Coelum, we are in for quite a ride this season.

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Restaurant Review: At The Tilted Row, interesting food and attention to detail create a memorable experience

By
Kit Pollard
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Bolton Hill’s dining scene has long been on the sleepier side, but with new development popping up, there are changes afoot. The Tilted Row, which opened earlier this year, is an exciting part of that progress.

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Restaurant Review: Nepenthe Brewing Co. is worth a visit, despite a few uneven dishes

By
Kit Pollard
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Before I stepped foot inside Nepenthe Brewing Co., I’d already heard a lot about it. I knew it was a new concept for Nepenthe Homebrew, a well-respected shop within the local homebrewing community that moved after a series of floods ravaged its building in the Meadow Mill complex next to the Jones Falls.

I’d also heard, through friends, that the new Nepenthe location was a lot of fun. They were right. During our visit, Nepenthe’s food was uneven, but there was a lot to like about it; the space, drinks and people went a long way towards making up for a few imperfections from the kitchen.

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Restaurant Review: Even with service hiccups, Station North hotspot Orto deserves its popularity

By
Kit Pollard
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Orto is hot right now, and with good reason.

The Station North restaurant isn’t perfect; during a Saturday night visit about two months after it opened, we experienced some service hiccups. But even with room to improve, Orto is very good.

Orto, which opened in February, is the baby of Elan Kotz, whose previous restaurant experience includes opening The Food Market with Chad Gauss back in 2012. Kotz is a front-of-house and behind-the-scenes guy; Orto’s kitchen is helmed by Chef Stefano Porcile, who has recently cooked at erstwhile Station North favorites Colette and Bottega.

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True to its name, State Fare offers an elevated take on Maryland comfort food

By
Karen Nitkin
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Image via Facebook.

Family-friendly yet stylish, with a large, varied menu of elevated comfort foods and a lively bar scene, State Fare in downtown Catonsville hits a sweet spot of being broadly pleasing without dumbing down its offerings.

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Restaurant review: The Alexander Brown Restaurant has a strong foundation but needs fine-tuning

By
Kit Pollard
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Photo credit: Amy Pezzicara of Pezz Photo

The Alexander Brown Restaurant is, without a doubt, one of the best-looking places in Baltimore. The restaurant, which opened downtown in early February in the former home of the Alex. Brown investment house, has the air of a well-maintained museum. The 118-year-old building is full of gorgeous architectural flourishes: high ceilings, marble columns and a showstopper of a stained-glass ceiling.

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Gypsy’s Truckstaurant is as fun as a college party, but with much better food

By
Kit Pollard
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Gypsy’s Truckstaurant is as much fun as a college party, but its menu of global street food is a whole lot better than anything you’d find in an average campus kitchen.

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Fells Point’s Peter’s Inn is back and as lovable as ever

By
Kit Pollard
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Photo by Brandon Weigel

A few years ago, I interviewed Karin Tiffany, the co-owner of Peter’s Inn, for a feature on restaurant personalities, and we got to talking about what’s important to her as a restaurateur.

She said she never takes her customers for granted, that she and her husband/business partner, Bud Tiffany, recognize that going out to eat is expensive and they take it seriously that people are willing to spend their money on their food, at their restaurant.

“Some things on my menu might cost what people make in an hour. That’s your hard-earned money. It’s a big responsibility.”

That stuck with me, and I thought of it again last year, just after Christmas, when the Fells Point restaurant caught fire. The damage was severe enough that Peter’s Inn, which had at that point been open for over 20 years, was forced to close for nine months to make all the necessary repairs.

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